Review No. 197: The Rogue Roundabout
804 Chestnut Street
(No phone number listed)
The Situation
He Said: So, 20 years ago who would have predicted that bone-dry Faulkner County would have a microbrewery-restaurant in Downtown Conway? Yet, here it is. In a 5,500 square-foot building that, if memory serves, used to be a payday check-cashing place on the corner of Main and Chestnut. Chris Smith—a home brewer for seven years—and his wife, Jessica, had built a large social media following and raised money through a “Kickstarter campaign” in the year prior to their opening on May 23 (the official “Grand Opening” will take place beginning with a ribbon cutting ceremony at 2 p.m., Thursday, June 15). The business is the first “craft kitchen and beverage lab” in the city and is already becoming popular. Which is why we, introverts and leisurely eaters that we are, chose the very calm hour of 2 p.m. on a Tuesday to scope the place out.
She Said: I was fortunate enough to meet friends here for lunch last week, and was so delighted, I told He Said we needed to go and review it as soon as we could. We’d have been in sooner if it weren’t closed on Sundays and Mondays. So I strategized the best calorie allotment plan of a small, healthy breakfast so I could spend the rest of my quota on “linner” here mid-afternoon.
Ambience:
He Said: The space is welcoming and congenial—a very large mural of the bearded Smith drawing a microbrew looms over the coffee bar as you come in. There are a number of very long tables that might encourage large groups to gather and party, though we opted for a small side table for privacy’s sake (refer to “introvert” comments above). According to pre-opening publicity, the proprietors worked with Joanna Nabholz at H + N Architects “to create an environment that is welcoming to people of all ages.” They seem to have succeeded.
She Said: My first impression was that I was in more of an urban center than lovely ex-urban Conway when I arrived here the first time. The mood to me was Minneapolis meets Portland, with a bit of Southern sun. It’s a cool, but not exclusive vibe, and I’ve felt very relaxed and comfortable here on both visits. The colors are soothing, but there is energy and verve in the large, open space. I didn’t mind at all that the hostess complimented my dress both times I visited (I am something of a collector of dresses…) That put me in a great mood from the get.
Drinks:
He Said: This is why most people will want to come here, I’m sure, to test the locally-brewed handcrafted beverages. But the choices here do include not only alcoholic but also non-alcoholic beverages created in the “beverage lab.” This allows customers too young to drink, or people like me who cannot drink alcohol (battle-cry, “Remember the Pancreas!”) to have something crafted for themselves. I chose a drink called the “Vanilla Velvet Root Beer.” This was a unique (and I use the term in its actual meaning of “one of a kind,” rather than its current popular misuse as “different”…but I digress) beverage that did not have the sweetness of typical root beer but had almost an ale-like dryness to it. You might find this quite a refreshing alternative. I did.
She Said: Since I was “drinking for two,” I tried two different brews during our most recent visit, the Dave Ward Delirium and the Salem de Saison, which were closer to the beers I love from my year living in Prague in the Czech Republic, land of beer for breakfast, lunch and dinner! (It’s called “pivo” there, and pilsners originated in Plzeň, in the western Czech region of Bohemia.) I didn’t mean to become a beer snob in Prague, but it was less expensive than Coke and more delicious than most beers I would drink after moving. Both of the Rogue Roundabout beers I tried were very tasty, and it was nice to get a zingy local beer again. I’ll be back, especially for the Dave Ward Delirium pilsner.
Food
He Said: Like the microbrewery itself, the kitchen here is also a kind of “lab,” trying out unusual dishes that surprise and delight. For an appetizer, I picked the grit-cakes, which were fried and crispy on the outside, and shaped like triangular servings of hash-browns, but contained smoked gouda and were drizzled with hot honey butter. These were delicious, and the fact is I could have easily made a meal out of them.
But all for your sake, dear reader, I felt obligated to try one of the other items on the menu, and picked the curried chicken salad. Let me just quote the menu and tell you this comprised “roasted curried chicken with golden currants, Marcona almonds, watermelon radish over a bed of local arugula tossed in a sesame ginger vinaigrette.” The chicken curry was delicious and the other flavors complemented it admirably. And there was plenty of it—this was a meal in itself, dear readers. Order it and you’ll be completely satisfied, and won’t need anything else, probably for the rest of the day.
She Said: Like He Said, I was eating for you, dear reader, and I, too, selected an appetizer and an entrée. I started with the whipped feta with honey that comes with olives and naan. Like He Said, I could have eaten this and been perfectly satisfied with my meal, as the mix of carbs, fat and protein was particularly satisfying along with the salt and sweet ratio of any well-balanced diet. But, there must be more! For my entrée, I chose the prosciutto flat bread, which also has feta (there’s a theme…). I ate about a third of my app and about half of my entrée (I brought the rest home… I leave no menu item behind!), so it was plenty of food. The flat bread was another delightful mix of textures and tastes, with the light, crispy bread, salty prosciutto and sharp feta.
When I came with my friends last week, I ordered the Scotch eggs and the chicken salad sandwiches. The eggs had a bit of a kick, but were very good and hearty, though might be a bit heavy not to share and eat as one’s entire meal. The “sandwich” was open-faced and served so heaping, I ate it with a knife and a fork. It, too, was delicious, but after tasting He Said’s curried chicken, I’d go with that next time.
Service
He Said: We had quick, courteous, good-humored and professional service, both from our original server and the one that took over for her seamlessly when her shift apparently ended. The orders came quite fast, though it must be admitted there were not a lot of customers at 2 o’clock in the afternoon, and with a larger crowd at peak times things might not go as quickly in a new restaurant.
She Said: In fact, our entrees came right after our appetizers, but I didn’t mind as it helped me strategize my choices before I got too full. Our service was wonderful on both visits, which for a new restaurant shows great organization. Very impressive!
What We Got and What We Paid: 1 16 oz. Dave Ward Delirium, 1 16 oz. Salem de Saison, 1 16 oz. Vanilla Velvet Root Beer, 1 Whipped Feta appetizer, 1 Grit Cakes appetizer, 1 Prosciutto Flatbread, 1 Curried Chicken Salad, all for $75.75, before tip.
Elapsed Time from Our Arrival to Food Arrival:
Arrival: 1: 58 p.m.
Appetizers: 2:08 p.m.
Entrees: 2:10 p.m.
Rating:
He Said: This place is a jewel in the crown of downtown Conway. It’s not the same old same old, and this Roundabout adds a bit of surprise and panache to the eating scene in the city of Roundabouts.
She Said: I love the local flair and the respect for our community this restaurant shows in bringing its A-game. Na zdraví! (That’s “cheers” in Czech!)
Is The Rogue Roundabout good at what it’s good for? It really, really is. Come for the brews, stay for the food (and plan your next visit as you see all the things you want to try next time on the menu).
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